It started with a documentary. Ryan and I find ourselves getting into a lot of trouble when we watch documentaries. It's probably a good thing the cable hasn't been hooked into the television for the past 8 months, otherwise we'd be living on a steady diet of Discovery and National Geo plotting our new lives on a island, hunting iguanas, running from mosquitoes and drinking distilled mango juice.
It was this documentary.
The short version: it's a four letter word. The slightly longer version: there's almost no food left in the ocean, we killed it all. We ate some of it, but not as much as you would think.
Near the end they mention one side effect of over-fishing, in the Chesapeake Bay there is an over abundance of cownose rays. We've killed all their predators (read sharks) and now between May and October the schools migrate into the bay and decimate the oyster population (they also get the clams and other invertebrates). By some accounts the schools are so thick you can walk over them.
Virginia is trying to change that by convincing the top predator that cownose rays are food. There is a small marketing campaign rebranding the ray the Chesapeake Ray. Hey, it worked for squid (aka calamari) and the Patagonian toothfish (aka Chilean sea bass). The state has also hired high-end chefs to create recipes, handed out ray meat to restaurants, and hosted cooking demonstrations.
After seeing the documentary and reading an article in the local paper I got inspired. I was going to buy some Chesapeake Ray, and I was going to cook it.
I envisioned this epic quest to locate a fishmonger who could sell it to us. I would end up needing to hire a charter boat and I could wrangle the fish in myself, minding the hooked barb on it's tail, of course. I would carry my catch home, a triumphant cave woman, and the twenty five pound ray would make a great thumping sound when I flipped it from my shoulder onto the counter. It would feed my family for a month, sustainably and environmentally conscientiously. After stopping at my local place my quest was stopped short.
Not only do they have it regularly (they catch it themselves) but they'd call me once they had some in stock.
A week later we had it.
We cooked it.
It was good.
It tastes very much like beef. And not in the way the frogs legs or iguana tastes like chicken, it tastes like beef the way cow tastes like beef. Salty beef, and not the best or finest cut of grass fed beef, but definitely beef.
Ryan and I skinned it, which was a pain in the ass and not our finest butchery job, and then sliced it thin. I dumped it in a skillet with a hefty pad of butter and a good handful of capers. (Yes, like veal piccata.) I over cooked it a bit, but it was still tasty. We both want to try making Ray Chili, and I think it would be good as a substitute for ground beef in any recipe.
My favorite part, it looks like butchered alien meat. How's this for first contact?
*My dear vegetarian friends, I do promise to cut back on the graphic photos of raw meat, I simply can't help my carnivorous self.


6 comments:
Cownose rays are closely related to sharks and share their inherent vulnerability to overfishing. Specifically, cownose rays usually have just one baby per year after a long pregnancy. Given this slow reproductive rate and other factors, many scientists dispute the reported “explosion” in the cownose ray population. Currently, there is no reason to assume the cownose ray fishery is sustainable as there are not yet population assessments or limits on catch. The more investment is made into this unregulated fishery, the harder it will be to adequately limit catches and ensure sustainability. After the serious depletion of related Atlantic species (large coastal sharks, spiny dogfish, thorny skates), it is time we learned our lesson and limited shark and ray fisheries before they boom. The public and marketers can help by promoting only seafood that is subject to science-based fishing limits and therefore sustainable over the longterm.
Sonja Fordham, President, Shark Advocates International
I agree with Ms Fordham. And the photos are foul...so I wouldn't add this to my menu - and I love meat.
Ms. Fordham: Thank you for your insight. You say that many scientists dispute the population growth among the rays, unfortunately my research (Professor Google) did not point me to any such information. We always want to open up conversations here at the Suburban Farm. Could you post a few links for further reading and research?
Anonymous: You have a complete lack of imagination, but I expect that's part of the curse of being a troll.
Yeah, this is one of those cases where industry is trying to trick you into believing this is "good" for the environment. Cownose rays only eat farm-raised clams and oysters - they don't touch the wild ones. The only reason they eat farm-raised bivalves is because they are small and found in very high concentrations (i.e. all-u-can-eat buffet). Below is diet (stomach content) data from a scientific paper by Smith and Merriner (1985) from the journal Estuaries. It shows the number of each species of bivalve found in the stomachs of cownose rays.
Mya arenaria, soft shell clam 231
Macoma balthica, Baltic macoma 128
Tagelus plebeius, stout razor clam 21
Mercenaria mercenaria, hard clam 10
Geukensia demissa, ribbed mussel 7
Crassostrea virginica oyster 1
The clam and oyster farmers want this species out of Chesapeake Bay because they eat their product - that is why they are fervently promoting this fishery. But mark my words, in 20 years (unless we get sensible regulations in place) we'll be trying to "save the cownose ray".
--posted anonymously b/c I work for the state that is promoting this.
Love the blog and would like to hear more about your adventures. Keep doing what you're doing. The photos are awesome!
I don't know, I think it's kind of cool that you are adventurous enough to try these kinds of things. It's refreshing to see open-minded people take charge and look for change in their daily habits that could benefit their communities. I think people like you guys at Suburban Farm are poised to make many positive and productive changes in the world, however large or small.
I found this blog by accident today. :3 I hope you'll continue updating!
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